Noram GE Ultimate (GEL) Strip down

 

If you want to get the best performance and longevity out of your clutch you need to service and clean them on a regular basis. They are an outboard clutch that is exposed to the elements. Both the Noram GE and the magnum type clutches are very similar so much of this can also be applied to those. It’s a very simple task to do.

 

 

To start with it’s a good idea to make a simple tool to aid clutch removal, just identify two holes in the clutch shoe or anywhere on the clutch where you can insert a holding device. Measure the size and distance between these. Drill a piece of bar, plate or similar to suit and tap or nut and bolt two fastenings in place.

For the GEL heavy shoe I’ve used two M6 set screws 37mm apart in some alloy bar, these drop into one shoe nicely (below).

 

 

Once you’ve removed it transfer it to a clean work area ready to be stripped. To do this you need a pair of external circlip pliers, some long-nosed pliers and a small flat screwdriver.

 

 

Remove the main circlip and then the thrust washer. Lift the drum away from the main body.

 

 

As you dismantle the clutch it’s a good idea to line up the components in the order in which you’ve removed them.

Next remove the thrust bearing; this comes off in three parts, the inner race followed by the roller cage and then the outer race.

 

 

Un hook the springs from the shoes and remove them, the shoes will then come away from the body of the clutch.

 

 

 

If you need to change the drum sprocket, un-hook the end of the spring clip and un-wind it from the sprocket lugs.

 

 

Once this is removed the sprocket will detach from the drum. The main needle roller is housed inside the sprocket.

 

Use a suitable fast drying cleaner (one that evaporates) as you do not want any residue substances left on any of the friction surfaces. Auto brake cleaner or similar is ideal, clean the inside of the drum and thoroughly flush all the dirt out of both bearings.

 

 

Apply a very small amount of grease to both bearings; I’m using high temperature grease, as this will maintain its viscosity when the clutch gets warm.

 

Re assembly is a reversal of the strip down process, as you put the clutch back together remove any excess grease that is pushed out.

If you want to change the spring grade or shoe setting use the chart displayed in the M4S forum as a guide, this will enable you to fine tune the clutch for your motor type, circuit or driving style. With the light shoe you have three settings, the heavy shoe gives you four.

 

When re-fitting the clutch always re-new the 3/16^th drive key, a clutch that’s slopping about on the shaft won’t perform well. The other problem is that you’ll wear the key slot on the motor’s output shaft. Don’t forget to use a thread-locking compound to keep the retaining screw from coming loose.

 

Happy Spannering

 

Jonty